The Sicilian Reserve fitting process

Ours is both a true bespoke process and product. Sicilian Reserve jackets are made to the workshop’s highest standard: individualized paper pattern, creation of a basted jacket, hand-padded canvas in chest, lapel and collar, hand-attached linings and pick-stitching. In addition, a fitting is included to make any fit adjustments to the basted jacket. 

In preparation for your fitting appointment, the workshop creates a partially constructed or basted jacket that you try on as a basis for refining the fit of your jacket. The body of the jacket is exposed with the internal canvas of the chest, lapel and collar. The sleeves and shoulders are attached with basted stitching which means they can be removed and adjusted as the tailor refines the fit of the jacket.

Before the tailor travels to the fittings, the workshop creates a “fitting pack” for each client containing the basted jacket (and/or pants) and order form to document changes in the fitting process.


Then we set up the room we are meeting in and get ready for your arrival.

When we meet with you, the tailor and I will examine the shoulder, chest, waist and overall proportions of the jacket. The tailor will shorten, lengthen, let out or take in different parts of the jacket, all the while pinning and marking these changes on the basted jacket in real time. These fit adjustments are also subsequently reflected in your paper pattern back in the workshop. 

The pants are a bit more straightforward. We take a look at the overall line and then examine the fit at key spots such as the waist, seat, thigh, leg and length. 

During the fitting you will finalize your preferences for jacket length, sleeve length, shoulder line (padded v. nonpadded), shoulder extension, button point, jacket waist and trouser length.  We typically have a discussion of these features at the time of the measurements and order taking but the fitting will enable you to make a final determination.

It is essential that you are comfortable with your choices and that you fully approve the changes made at the fitting. These choices are often not reversible (e.g. button stance/height).


One of the great strengths of Sicilian tailoring is its flexibility. Although our base jacket has minimal canvas and no padding, our tailor can flex up or down the amount of structure in your shoulder. Although we don’t lock you into a particular shoulder structure, we do make recommendations if you have extremely sloping or over-square shoulders. 

Below are a few examples of fittings conducted in the fall of 2017 in San Francisco and New York City: 

Last but not least, we will discuss lining and button choices that would go well with your commission. We offer bemberg linings and horn, corozo and mother of pearl buttons. The tailor and I will make recommendations on linings and buttons but you are certainly free to make your own choices (or even bring your own linings and buttons). 

How much cloth do I need?

We require the following minimum cloth lengths based on your height and chest size up to US mens size 42. Of course, it's always better to provide more cloth than the minimum. Minimum cloth lengths require a standard 59-62 inch (150 - 157 cm) cloth width. Please check your cloth width and length before ordering. 

A few other important notes: 

  • Lengths below can accommodate single or double breasted jackets with full lining.
  • If you are between 5'7" and 5'11", round up your height to 5'11". 
  • Note: Yard lengths are generally rounded up from their metric equivalents for convenience and safety margin.

For garments, heights, cloth widths or chest sizes not listed here, please consult with us first before purchasing your cloth.
Height up to 5’7” and chest size up to US size 42

  • Sports jacket = 1.75 yards (1.6 meters) for plain cloth or 2.0 yards (1.8 meters) for patterned cloth. Note: Half or quarter lined jackets require a minimum of 2.5 yards (2.3 meters). 
  • Trousers = 1.33 yards (1.2 meters)
  • 2 piece suit = 3.25 yards for plain cloth or 3.33 yards for patterned cloth

Height up to 5’11” and chest size up to US size 42

  • Sports jacket = 2.0 yards (1.7 meters) for plain cloth or 2.25 yards (2.0 meters) for patterned cloth. Note: Half or quarter lined jackets require a minimum of 2.5 yards (2.3 meters). 
  • Trousers = 1.5 yards (1.3 meters)
  • 2 piece suit = 3.5 yards for plain cloth or 3.75 yards for patterned cloth

Our lengths are usually less than the generic numbers cited on the web or by other cloth merchants or tailors (e.g. 2.5m for a jacket or 3.5m for a suit). Generic cloth lengths are intended to cover nearly all possible body types and therefore include excess margin not needed by our tailor (or most Sicilian tailors for that matter).

We will provide lining for your commission and will tend to match lining color with the base or dominant color of your cloth but you will have a range of color options for lining and buttons.

If you wish to provide your own lining material and buttons, please include those at the same time you give us your cloth. Below are typical lengths for lining but please contact us to confirm: 

  • Half lining (body and sleeves) = 1.5 yards (1.35 meters)
  • Full lining (body and sleeves) = 1.75 yards (1.55 meters)